If I had my druthers I'd surf mornings every chance I got. 'Course if were up to me I'd sleep in every chance I got. You see the conflict of interest. Still, a morning surf brings an almost Zen-like feeling. No matter how clean or sloppy the swell, there is a sense of calm. Clarity. It's just a matter of getting up and staying up long enough to see clear enough to make the 30 mile trek to the beach. First Saturday in a while that I didn't have to work.
Got up, grabbed a cup 'o joe offa Route 90 and was in the water by 8...ish. Sweeeeeeeeet.
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| Morning Zen. 8/6 |
Made for Castles and 38th. Knee to thigh highs with some bump. Occasional waists tended to jack making for a few nose dives when I wasn't watchin'. Water still in the 70's and the air in the 80's. Gotta love the summer winds! Stayed in until the whistle blew (Guards throw you out at 10...but they let ya catch that last wave in). Post session Mickey D's Egg McMuffin closed the deal. Feel the stoke, Brah!
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| Feed the Machine! |
Got up, grabbed a cup 'o joe offa Route 90 and was in the water by 8...ish. Sweeeeeeeeet.
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